Italian English
06 September 2018
The Vegan Revolution

 

It was back in 1989 when chef Pietro Leemann, to the amazement of all, opened his restaurant Joia in Milan, a temple of high quality vegetarian cuisine as well as the first (and only) vegetarian restaurant in Italy with a Michelin star. 

 
Almost 30 years have passed since then. Vegetarian and, increasingly, vegan places are popping up at every corner: from fine cuisine to street food, from restaurants to patisseries.   
 
Is veganism a new thing? Not really. Supporters of the vegan diet, based on the exclusive use of plant-based foods have existed since ancient times. But few would have thought it would catch on in (an often traditional) Italy.
 


Rich in essential nutrients vegan cuisine is a pleasure for the palate as well as the eye. Think of specialties such as plant-based pancakes from Milan-based Mantra Raw Vegan (the first vegan and raw food restaurant in Italy) or the "naturally" psychedelic hamburgers of Flower Burger. 
 
However, this trend is not confined to Italy’s fashion and design capital. From Milan to Palermo passing through Rome, vegan cuisine is conquering more space on the city streets.
 

AND THEN THE VEGAN CAPPUCCINO CAME ALONG 


It all started with Soya.
 
"The most requested is soya milk, both for cappuccinos and for special recipes like Iced soya latte," confirms Luana Carlino, store manager of Caffè Pascucci in San Babila, Milan. 
 
A common trend proving popular in Southern Italy too. Paola Campana, owner of Campana coffee roaster in Torre Annunziata, Naples confirms "soya-based milk alternatives are the most sought after, followed by almond.”

Some coffee shops located in more touristy areas of Milan (with a daily influx of international customers) are now expanding their menu past soya and almond, with specialty coffee bars such as Cofficina offering coconut and coconut-almond drinks as part of the daily serves.
 


It is because of this growing appetite for plant-based coffees that Alpro has decided to invest in Italy.
 
"The number one place where Italians try a plant-based drink is in a coffee shop environment. If they like it, then they will buy it at home too. For Alpro the barista represents a key channel for getting new trends into the Italian market and into Italian homes," explains Maddalena Zanoni, Head of Alpro Italy, Greece, Cyprus and Malta. 
 

HERE COMES THE SCIENCE

 
Some are approaching vegan cuisine and making coffees differently. Almost systematically.
 
Matteo Beluffi, Latte Art world champion and co-owner of consulting company Bel.co srl (with his brother Dario), explains “I have been experimenting with using plant-based drinks in coffee for about a year now. Testing various types and different brands to find the perfect pairing. The best in terms of taste, texture of the final drink and versatility are oat and almond”.
 
“Quality remains key. A quality vegan coffee, is one without  any added flavours that cover up and alter the overall taste. A good plant-based drink can even enhance the aromatic notes of coffee," he adds.
 


 

 FAD OR FIXTURE? 

 
"It’s a lifestyle not a fleeting trend," says Dario Beluffi, vegan pastry chef, author of the book series "Project Veg" and co-owner of Bel.co srl.
 
"After devoting years to making traditional patisseries, I started to develop an interest in vegan cuisine. This came two years ago following a big change in my dietary habits. I lost almost 25 kilos by completely changing my approach to food and food making.”
 
Since then, he has devoted his life to vegan cuisine.  
 
"Many products intended for vegans are actually consumed by people who have food intolerances or, like me, are looking for viable tasty alternatives," continues Dario.
 

 
"Over a third of Italian households consume vegan products. Most of them - up to 95% - are not vegan but flexitarian. They value variety and newness, especially younger generations" says Maddalena Zanoni from Alpro.
 
"A balanced and diversified diet can be maintained with the introduction of plant-based drinks and other products. Bringing new variations of classic recipes to the plate or cup. Healthy, tasty and sustainable." 
 

Eager to learn more about the vegan revolution? Alpro will be at The Milan Coffee Festival with the first Vegan Coffee Bar in Italy, introducing the "Alpro for Professionals" line.
 
Expect lots of plant-based coffee drinks to taste. From a morning cappuccino (spoiler: not just soya!) to affogato in the afternoon and creative vegan cocktails for the aperitif.

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